OK, i've played through it, and all in all, I don't know why I was so apprehensive about starting on it. It really is a very good game. Apart from one area towards the end that was really beginning to grate my nerves, I enjoyed my time soaking in the atmosphere. But then maybe the things I liked are the things other people hate? I had no objections to the side missions and the combat system had a counter system I was actually fairly good at for once (and once I learned you could use your hidden blade for counters, well, things got very fun...).
All in all, this evil genius gives it a solid thumbs up.
Oh, and the resin figure we get in our Collector's Edition is bigger than the one that comes in the US release (10 inch as opposed to just 3). Food for thought.